Portuguese Plates (and Places)
One of the (few) benefits of cosplaying as a high school teacher: a two-week, paid March break. Naturally, I (just one Disher this time, unfortunately) used seven of those fourteen days to bop around Lisbon and Porto.
Here are the highlights:
Lisbon
Lisbon was easy. The neighborhoods made sense, the people were friendly, and the restaurants were accommodating – and I mean created a table out of thin air for us accommodating.
Lisbon was also cool – both in vibe and in temperature. We stayed at Dear Lisbon's 'Gallery House', a hospitality firm with a number of beautiful boutique hotels across the city. We truly lucked out with its location – everything we wanted to try and didn't know we wanted to try was a five minute walk away. A five minute uphill walk away, but still...five minutes! While I don't recommend going in March, I'd suggest planning a two or three night stop in Lisbon before heading somewhere sandier, warmer, and slightly less steep.
Lisbon’s Plates
Skizzo
Our first and my favourite dinner of the trip, Skizzo is a small, relaxed, but incredibly cool spot serving truly special small and shareable plates.
I'm still dreaming about the tuna.
Cosmo
The source of my newfound Gilda obsession.
Also the home of the best martini I had all trip.
Rhodo Bagels
The very first and the very last bites we took in Lisbon and definitely some of the best. Highly recommend the smoked salmon (obviously) and the tinned fish (amazing).
Lisbon’s Places
Boavista Social Club
The natural-wine-vinyl-very-strong-negroni bar we visited every night! It's busy, but there's usually a hidden table, counter, or lone pair of stools to swipe.
Insaciavel
No menu, just waiters who ask what kind of wine you like to drink and return with arms full of options. Highly recommend sitting outside – but check the forecast first.
Prescription Pilates
I know. What kind of freak goes to a workout class on vacation? In Europe??
(Me)
((I do))
And if you happen to share this particular strain of mental illness, I highly recommend Prescription. There are a few locations, the classes are in English, and you can expect to hold poses for double (!) the amount of time you would at home.
Porto
Porto was quiet.
We did visit during off-season but even so, most restaurants and bars were either open on Wednesday to Saturday (not ideal for two girls who were in town Sunday to Wednesday) or from 5:00pm onwards (not ideal when beaches are not viable options).
In an attempt to fill one of those day-long gaps, we signed up for a free walking tour and learned a little more about the city. Did you know that one cathedral's tower is always slightly larger than the other? We didn't! It's because they represent Adam and Eve, the latter being larger and on the right because of her 'childbearing hips'. At least that's what our guide and his yellow umbrella told us.
Porto’s Plates
Capella Incomum
A chapel turned wine bar (recommended by our yellow-umbrella-toting tour guide) with a great selection of Duoro Valley whites, a big menu of small plates, and a stocked bottle shop.
Época Café
Adorable breakfast spot on the end of a very crafty/cool street. Highly recommend the scrambled eggs (from a certified egg hater) ((they added parm)) but would pass on the "pancake" (air-quotes very much pronounced).
Tábua Rasa
This meal revived us after the most treacherous train ride of our lives. We split a charcuterie board, downed two glasses of vinho verde, and left with a plan to return the next night.
Porto’s Places
Gito
Natural wine bar with extremely baggable glasses and the most beautiful bottles.
Rosebud Bookshop
A tiny, English bookshop with the best fiction selection I've seen in a while.
LOT – Labels of Tomorrow
Two levels of the coolest clothes, accessories, and shoes we saw all trip.
And a rooftop bar with supersized Aperol spritzes.
Spots to skip:
Livaria Lello
Honestly, save yourself the admission fee and scroll through the Instagram photos.
If you're looking for more spots, shops, and stays, send us a DM :)